For the pork: Trim the pork shoulder of excess fat, but leave a thin layer over the top of the roast. For a more consistent shape, the roast can be tied at 1-inch intervals with kitchen twine, but this is optional. Season the pork generously on all sides with salt and pepper.

Peel the onions, cut lengthwise in half,  and cut each half into 3/4-inch wedges. Place in a 7-quart Copper-Core Dutch Oven. Cut the celery heart lengthwise in half, and then across into 1-inch pieces. You should have about 2 cups. Add the celery and apple wedges to the Dutch Oven.

Place the roast, fat side up, on the onions, celery, and apples. Pour in the stout and chicken stock. The liquid should come to the top of the vegetables and apples, and the pork will sit above the liquid. If desired, cut a parchment round (see Note) and press it on top of the meat; the parchment lid offers another layer of protection for the meat.

Place the Dutch Oven over medium heat and bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover the pot and place in the oven to braise for about 7 hours.

Remove the pot from the oven and check the meat. It should be very tender. If it is not, return to the oven and check again every 30 minutes. When the meat is tender, remove from the oven and let the meat cool in the pot for about 30 minutes.

Remove the meat to a plate, cover, and refrigerate for up to 3 days before serving. Strain the braising liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a large liquid measuring cup. You will need 4 cups of the braising liquid for the sauce. Any extra can be discarded or saved for another use.  Refrigerate the 4 cups of liquid for several hours, or overnight, to allow the fat to rise and solidify on the surface.

While the roast cooks, prepare the raisins: Place the dark raisins in a small sauce pan in a single layer, and place the sultanas in a second pan. Add about 1/3 cup cold water to each pan, or just enough to cover. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer to plump the raisins. Cook gently until the water has evaporated.

Combine the raisins in one pan and add the vinegar and sugar. Return the pan to the heat and stir to melt the sugar. Remove from the heat and place the raisins in a bowl or covered container. (The raisins can be kept refrigerated for several days.)

For the apple sauce: Place the shredded apples and lemon zest in a bowl. Remove and discard any fat that has risen to the top of the braising liquid. Place in a sauce pan and bring to a boil. Pour the boiling liquid over the apples, cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap, and let the apples steep for 30 minutes.

Strain the apple liquid into a sauce pan and bring to a simmer. Discard the apples.  Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix together the apple juice and cornstarch. Slowly add to the simmering sauce. It will thicken almost immediately, so check the consistency and add only as much of the cornstarch mixture as you like. Simmer gently for a minute, then set aside.

To complete the dish: Preheat the oven to 250˚F.

Remove the meat from the refrigerator. Trim off and discard any remaining visible fat. Cut the roast into 8 slices about 2 1/2 inches across and 1 1/2 inches thick. Toss the bread crumbs with salt and pepper to taste and spread on a plate. Brush both sides of each piece of pork with a light coating of Dijon mustard. Dredge the pork in the bread crumbs, turning to coat both sides. The edges will not be coated. Set aside.

For the apple garnish: Cut a large slice from two opposite sides of each apple, without cutting into the core. Cut a 1/2-inch slice of apple from the cut side of each one. With a large round cutter, cut a large round from each slice.  

Heat a thin film of canola oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the apple rounds and sauté, turning the apples to brown evenly on both sides. If the apples are ready before the pork is hot, set aside in a warm place. Just before serving, reheat the rounds, then swirl in the butter.

As the apples sauté, heat 1/8 inch of canola oil in an ovenproof, nonstick pan large enough to hold the pork in a single layer, without touching, over medium heat. Use two pans if necessary. Add the pork and sauté for about 3 to 4 minutes, or until the bottom crust is golden brown. Carefully turn and brown on the second side. Place the pan in the oven to heat for about 5 minutes, or until the  pork is hot throughout.

Meanwhile, reheat the apple sauce.  Place an apple round in the center of each of eight shallow serving bowls. Place the pork on top of the apples. Top the pork with the raisins, and pour the sauce around the meat. Serve with the potato puree on the side.

Serves 8

POTATO PUREE

This potato puree is meant to have a looser consistency than the mashed potatoes you remember from growing up. The amount of butter and cream you incorporate into the puree is up to you, and the consistency will loosen as more cream and butter are added. It is important to work the cream and butter into the potatoes slowly, a bit at a time, to keep the mixture emulsified.

Cooking the potatoes in their skins keeps the flesh from absorbing too much water. Make the puree just before serving.

6 Yukon Gold potatoes (2 pounds), scrubbed

Kosher salt

Up to 1 cup heavy cream, heated until hot

Up to 1 pound unsalted butter

Place the potatoes in a pot with salted water to cover them by at least 4 inches. Bring to a boil and boil gently for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the potatoes are completely tender and offer no resistance when pierced with a knife. Drain well.

Peel the potatoes, then push them through a ricer into a 3-quart saucier. (The rounded bottom of a saucier is perfect for these potatoes, because it is like working in a bowl.) Place the pan over low heat and stir the potatoes for a moment to dry them slightly. Add the cream and butter a little at a time, alternating them and beating vigorously with a wooden spoon the entire time. It is important to keep the temperature low; if the puree becomes too hot, the butter will melt as it is added and the potatoes may become oily.  The potatoes should cling to the sides of the pan, and the puree will be more difficult to mix than ordinary mashed potatoes. If the pan becomes too hot, the potatoes may stick to the spoon; should this happen, remove the pan from the heat and beat in a small amount of water, then return the pan to the heat and continue.

Serve the puree as soon as possible.

Makes 5 cups

Note: To make a parchment lid, cut a square of parchment paper bigger than the pot or pan you are using. Fold two opposite corners together to form a triangle, then fold this triangle in half into a smaller triangle; it will have two short sides and one long side. Position the triangle so that one of the short sides faces you. Fold this bottom edge up, making a narrow triangle, and crease it, maintaining the point of the triangle, much as if you were making a paper airplane. Fold this “wing” over again, and continue until you have a very slender triangle. Place the tip over the center of the pot to be covered and mark the edge of the pot with your thumb, then cut the edge of the paper at that point. Cut about 1/2 inch from the tip of the triangle. Unfold the triangle. You will have a paper round the size of your pot with a steam vent in the center.